Kenai Fjords Glacier Bay Lodge - Alaska’s Accessible Wilderness
As I approached the Ted Stevens International Airport in Anchorage on a crystal clear afternoon, I peered out over the expansive views of the Chugash Mountains, the Harding Ice Field, and Kenai Fjords National Park of south-central Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula.
My adventure would begin traversing the 130 mile stretch of the highway from Anchorage to the seaside town of Seward. Considered by many to be one of America’s most beautiful drives, the Seward Highway offers many WOW moments along the way. When keeping my eyes on the road became too difficult, I’d pull off and take in the expansive vistas of Turnagain Arm, the Chugash Mountain Range and majesti glaciers.
Once in Seward, one of Alaska’s oldest and most scenic coastal communities, I found a host of tour and charter options, ranging from halibut and salmon charters, Kenai Fjords tours and the Alaska Sea Life Center. In the summer months, Seaward comes alive, serving as the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park and Resurrection Bay.
My fist full day in Alaska would take me from Seaward aboard a 40’ landing craft to Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge, the only eco-lodge within the park. Our landing craft also served a water taxi for groups of kayakers heading into the park for extended kayaking tours. Once the groups debark onto deserted pebble beaches with their kayaks and gear, they are on their own for up to a week. The time and place of their pick-up is re-confirmed by the captain before departing. As we continue motoring toward Holgate Glacier, we sight a group of Dall Porpoise playing of the bow effortlessly keeping pace.
After an hour of at the terminus of the Holgate Glacier I relished in a jaw dropping display of glacial calving. As I looked through the images of glaciers and fjords I had recently captured on my camera the captain announced that we would soon be approaching our destination. As we crossed the calm waters of Aialik Bay, views of the Pederson Glacier dominated the landscape; it would become the focal point of my stay at the Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge for the next two days.
A welcoming party from the lodge waits on the shore as our deck hand lowered the landing ramp onto the pebble beach. As we walked ashore, our luggage and supplies were being offloaded onto all-terrain vehicles. I opted for the 15 minute walk to the lodge which provided an opportunity for a quick orientation and introduction to the recently completed eco-lodge. It was clear that the land I was walking on was recently covered by glaciers. Young Alder trees, dotted the landscape long with other “pioneer plants,” but soil in any quantity was still decades away as the slow process of soil building continued.
On my orientation I learned that what attracts most visitors to Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge is its location and stunning views of the Pederson Glacier and Lagoon. Situated on 1,700 acres within Kenai Fjords National Park, it’s the only lodge within the park. The lodge opened in 2008 after two years of development. It is well to note that every possible precaution was used to keep the building site in its original pristine condition.
The 16 well appointed guest cabins, connected by boardwalks; all enjoy unobstructed views of the Pederson Lagoon and Pederson Glacier. The main lodge was built in part by utilizing large timbers cut from the site on which the lodge was built. The oversized windows in the great room provide an excellent vantage point for viewing wildlife and around the lagoon. Overstuffed chairs and a wood fire invite relaxation along with some wine tasting. Handcrafted rocking chairs line the outside deck and provide a comfortable outdoors gathering area. Photographers will find the picture postcard vista created by the glacier a difficult object to resist as the soft morning and evening light play upon it face.
Before my sumptuous family style dinner, the activities coordinator checked in with me to see if I was up for a hike to the glacier the next morning. The three mile round trip hike which begins and ends with a canoe trip across the lagoon is just one of the popular activities available at Kenai Fjords Glacier Lodge. During my hike the following day I viewed black bears; sea otters; eagles; mountain goats; and a cacophony of birds which inhabit this wilderness setting. Kayaking trips across Aialik Bay are popular for those seeking a little more adventure during their stay and require some endurance.
In summary, I was most impressed with the sense of respect for the land and wildlife that was evident throughout my two night stay. There was no disturbance of the surroundings save for the footprint of the buildings and pathways that lead to it. The lodge staff was knowledgeable and helpful. The activities and meal schedules offered a relaxed rhythm that I found refreshing and restful. The retreat like setting allows nature to take center stage as it should in the within heart of Kenai Fjords National Park.
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